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Coloration végétale : alternative efficace à la coloration chimique ?

Rédigé par Ines 35 commentaires

Plus écologique, plus doux pour nos cheveux, la tendance de la coloration végétale connait un grand essor. Déjà utilisé en salon depuis des années, on en retrouve maintenant en grande surface.

Aujourd’hui je vous explique ce qu’est la coloration végétale et pourquoi elle peut être une véritable alternative à la coloration permanente.

Coloration végétale ?

La coloration végétale est une coloration 100% naturelle à base de plantes tinctoriales telles que le henné, le cassia ou l’indigo.
Les plantes sont donc ionisés (= destruction des micro-organismes par un rayonnement), le produit est alors pur et sain pour le cuir chevelu. Elle ne contient pas d’ammoniaque, d’agent oxydant ni de produit issus de la pétrochimie.

Comment ça marche ?

Le mécanisme de base de la coloration permanente est la pénétration des colorants dans la fibre grâce à un agent alcalin (le plus souvent de l’ammoniaque) qui ouvre les écailles du cheveu. Ici, il n’y a aucun agent alcalin, la couleur ne peut donc pas se fixer dans la fibre mais va rester en surface.
Les molécules colorantes étant de très petites tailles, elles restent fixées sur le cheveu. La couleur s’estompe au fil des lavages mais la ténacité reste proche de celle de la coloration d’oxydation classique.

Pour qui ?

La coloration végétale est adaptée à tout le monde à condition de chercher un résultat naturel ou pour apporter des reflets à sa couleur naturelle. En effet, le panel de couleur reste restreint et elle ne permet pas de passer d’un brun à un blond ou d’avoir des couleurs types pastel.
A savoir, cette coloration ne couvre que 50 à 70% des cheveux blanc.

Application :

Chez le coiffeur ou en kit, il s’agit de mélanger les poudres à de l’eau chaude. Concernant les kits, les proportions en poudre de chaque plante colorante sont déjà préparées pour faciliter l’application. On obtient ainsi un cataplasme (= consistance pâteuse semblable à un masque d’argile) qu’il nous teste plus qu’à appliquer.
Le temps de pose est bien plus important que la coloration d’oxydation, on peut aller jusqu’à 1H30.

ATTENTION ! La couleur finale n’est définitive qu’après 48H. Il est alors conseillé de ne pas faire de shampooing pendant ce laps de temps.

Quel cout ?

En salon, on retrouve L’Oréal Professionnel et leur gamme Botanéa dont le prix sera évidemment plus élevé  qu’en grande surface. On reste en général aux alentours des 100 .

 

En grande surface ou sur internet, on a les kits prêts à l’emplois de cher Logona, Phyto Paris ou récemment Garnier avec Color Herbalia. Les prix sont nettement plus accessibles avec une moyenne de 15 €.

Alors êtes-vous tenté de passer à la coloration végétale et de dire au revoir à la coloration chimique ? Avez-vous déjà testé ? Dites-moi tout !

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